This way of cooking eggs has never failed me. The hard-boiled yolks enrich, thicken and stabilise the mayonnaise. Buy the best free-range eggs you can and always cook them from room temperature. The mayonnaise makes plenty and pairs well with any leftover ham. Like milk in tea, spice is very personal, so freely adjust the amounts below to your tolerance.

I make the mayonnaise in a food processor, but if you make it in a bowl add the crushed anchovies and yolks at the end. It won’t have the smooth texture but will taste the same. Everything can be made a day in advance and kept in the fridge.

Makes 8 halves
free-range eggs 7, at room temperature
dijon mustard 1½ tbsp
lemon 1, juiced
anchovy fillets in oil 1 x tin, drained (my favourite are Ortiz)
sunflower or grapeseed oil 100ml
chilli olive oil 160ml
Tabasco to taste

Start with the boiled eggs. Bring a pot of water to the boil and carefully lower in 4 eggs. Reduce the heat to a steady simmer for 8 minutes. Drain the eggs and place them under cold running water for 5 minutes or into an ice bath. Once cool, peel the eggs and cut each in half. Gently remove the yolks for the mayonnaise, place the hollowed out whites in a bowl of cold water and set aside.

Separate the remaining 3 eggs. Put the 3 yolks, the cooked yolks, mustard, lemon juice, 4 anchovy fillets and 3 tablespoons of water into a food processor. With the motor running, add the oils in a very slow, steady stream and blend until thick and glossy. (If you are using a bowl, place it on a damp tea towel to keep steady, then slowly add the oils, whisking the entire time.) Taste and adjust the spice with Tabasco, remembering not to over-season as the eggs are later topped with another anchovy. Spoon the mayonnaise into a piping bag or container and place in the fridge.

When you’re ready, remove the eggs from the water and pat dry. Generously spoon or pipe the mayonnaise into the hollow and top each one with an anchovy.

Florence Knight is head chef at Sessions Arts Club, London EC1