While Bruges is a magnet for romantic travellers and Antwerp draws the fashionistas, Ghent is very much Belgium's secret, perfect for a weekend getaway. What's more, there is a new trend for art galleries, boutiques, bars and restaurants to open their own bed and breakfasts, and staying at one of these original and affordable places lets you mix in with the daily life of the city.

Ghent's beautifully preserved medieval city centre with its picturesque canals and river is easily explored on foot and, rather than traipsing around museums, you can see masterpieces such as Jan van Eyck's Adoration of the Mystic Lamb in Saint Bavo cathedral, where he painted it in the 15th century.

But don't think for a minute that this is another of those "museum cities" that all but close down once the tour buses have driven off at the end of the afternoon. Ghent has a big student population, which means a lively bar and clubbing scene and exciting young designers, while restaurants offer everything from creative gourmet cuisine to traditional Flemish cooking.

There are two ways to get a first impression of the city. Just by the Grass Bridge, jump on one of the tour boats that chug round the city's romantic waterways, past the towering Castle of the Counts, opulent Gothic guildhalls, the old fish and butchers' markets. For €5.50, the trip is fun and good value. Then track down the best bar in town, Dreupelkot (Groentenmarkt 12, open daily from 4pm till very late). This brilliant watering hole serves only lethal shot glasses of the Belgian speciality genièvre - gin - in more than 200 flavours. It is a real slice of life, and you'll invariably end up in conversation with friendly locals and the genial host, Pol.

Anyone interested in bargain-hunting should head straight for the sprawling flea market that surrounds St Jacob's church every Friday, Saturday and Sunday morning. Walk over to Le Bar Depot (Beverhoutplein 14), an antiques showroom that doubles as a chic cafe serving champagne brunch whenever the market is on. One of Ghent's hip young designers, Sophie Bos, has her boutique, Zoot (Serpentstraat 8), just nearby. She started out selling vintage, but has now created her own line of clothes and stylish accessories.

There are several other original spaces on the adjacent Onderstraat not to be missed, especially Bar D'Oh, which has lingerie to die for and some very naughty sex toys, and Pink Flamingo's, an outrageously kitsch bar, ideal for a cheap but tasty lunch.

Before deciding where to go for dinner, begin with a sunset stroll along the Kraanlei and Korenlei, the town's medieval port, where the ancient guildhouses are brilliantly lit up. You could just stop here, and dine at the intimate Korenlei Twee (00 32 9 224 0073), where the fabulous waterside views are matched by an inventive cuisine that includes marinated scallops with a tuna tartare, and fois gras caramelised with apples and Liègeois syrup. For a much livelier buzz, reserve at Pakhuis (Schuurkenstraat 4; 00 32 9 223 5555), a vast industrial space converted into a bustling brasserie specialising in huge oyster and seafood platters, while a very special evening awaits diners at the House of Eliott (Jan Breydelstraat 36; 00 32 9 225 2128), a wonderfully camp restaurant decked out in 1920s antiques.

After dinner, treat yourself to a mojito or caipirinha at the ultra-cool cocktail bar Limonada (Heilige Geeststraat 7), before walking across to the Vlasmarkt, a square lined with bars and clubs. Drinks are cheap and there's no entry charge or aggressive bouncers. Kick off at the latest hotspot, Le Bar des Amis, which looks like a normal bistro at first, but head upstairs and there is a maze of bars with a booming sound system. Alternative hangouts are the Kinky Star Bar, which hosts live bands, Trash or Jos, and then wait as late as possible to hit Ghent's best club, Charlatan. This nightspot has a labyrinth of bars, dance floors and even a courtyard chillout zone. When you eventually stagger out, miraculously one bar on the square is still open, the aptly named 't Begin van 't Einde, "the beginning of the end".

• A Eurostar ticket to Brussels allows you to travel to Ghent or any other city in Belgium for no extra charge. Return ticket from £59. The station is not in the city centre, but you can get there by cab or tram. John Brunton stayed at Hotel Harmony (www.hotel-harmony.be). For more information call 020 7307 7738 or visit www.visitflanders.co.uk

Ghent's new breed of stylish B&Bs

Baeten B&B

Burgstraat 11; 00 32 9 223 06 17; www.baetenbnbgent.be, €65 double room

Burgstraat is lined with dozens of specialist antique shops, and N'Importe Quoi is where enthusiasts come looking for rare 1950s and 1960s furniture and art. The people who get the best bargains, however, are likely to be the guests staying at the owner's bed and breakfast. Housed in a rambling 16th-century mansion, the design showroom stretches over two floors, while the B&B rooms, which are furnished with an array of lovely antiques, are at the back, looking out over a peaceful walled garden.

Simon Says

Sluizeken 8; 00 32 9 233 0343; www.simon-says.be, €95 double room

Brits Simon Turner and Christopher Joseph are based in Ghent and have just opened a B&B above their cool coffee bar in an art nouveau house. They're bubbling with enthusiasm, and are a mine of information on the latest galleries and fashion boutiques, eating out and where to party late. They have two luxurious rooms with ensuite bathrooms, and the coffee bar has already become a hip rendezvous, with locals loving the organic quiches with Oxfam chutney and afternoon tea with home-baked scones.

Verzameld Werk

Onderstraat 23a; 00 32 9 224 2712; www.verzameldwerk.be, €95

Verzameld Werk, the Collection, is a contemporary design gallery and owner Ingrid De Coster has incorporated the designs into the decoration of her two stunning bed and breakfast suites. She exhibits the latest creations from renowned interior designers but it is the B&B guests who get to use them. Come here expecting to be surprised by avant-garde minimalist decor by the likes of Ron Arad, Arne Jacobsen and Droog Design.

Chambreplus

Hoogpoort 31; 00 32 9 225 3775; www.chambreplus.be, €90 double room

Hoogpoort is Ghent's main shopping drag, and Chambreplus is the B&B upstairs from Atelierplus, a creative cooking school that specialises in tempting tapas dishes and irresistible chocolate desserts. If Mia and Hendrik - she is the chef and he a master chocolatier - are running a course, visitors at the B&B inevitably end up joining in or at least tasting the final dishes. The three cosy B&B rooms are all decorated in African colonial style, and guests also have the use of a comfy lounge and Zen Japanese garden.

Faja Lobi

Vlaanderenstraat 2; 00 32 9 223 5533; www.fajalobi.be, €70 double room

Gene Hewitt comes from the tiny South American republic of Surinam, and named his exotic restaurant, bar and B&B Faja Lobi, which means passion flower. He runs it with his Belgian partner, Jurgen, and Gene cooks tasty Surinamese dishes and mixes lethal rum punches. Although there is a quiet lounge, most guests end up with the locals in the bar, which can stay open till the early hours at the weekend. Be prepared for seriously steep steps up to the rooms, which are spacious but rather simply decorated.

Puerto Patershol

Kraanlei 55; 00 32 9 225 7532; patersholbb.ceciliajaime.com, €100 double room

Everyone staying here is charmed by vivacious Argentinian artist Cecilia Jaime. She and her husband have converted a merchant's house and rent out two big rooms with kitchen. There is a lush garden at the back, and the house has picture-perfect views over the river. Cecilia's paintings adorn the rooms; don't miss the chance to accompany her to her vast atelier to view larger works.