At the junction of Danforth and Pleasant Street, a place once known as Gorham’s Corner, a stone monument commemorates ordinary folk who used to live in the neighbourhood. There’s the shopkeeper, after whom the corner was named, and the local priest “who was often called by the police to halt street fights”. As if to prove the point, the next name listed is that of a man who died in a brawl with local toughs, the Connelly Brothers: “His death sparked a riot.”
Some older locals can recall the days when Portland was still a rough-and-ready port town, with alcohol-fuelled punch-ups downtown and areas you didn’t walk in after dark. A transformation over the past two decades means it’s now often described as one of the best US towns to live in. From the Old Port to a lively arts district and up-and-coming bayside areas, this town of 66,000 has incubated a creative and foodie scene that can hold its own against anywhere.
Its secret is a deep-rooted community spirit: it’s not enough just to “buy local”, residents want to know the person who’s cooking their food, brewing their beer, making their clothes. Once a key destination on the freedom trail that helped African Americans escape slavery in the South – boarding ships to Canada and England, or working on the wharves – the town has welcomed immigrants and refugees from Somalia, Kenya, Cambodia and Vietnam.
Maine has long been a summer destination for vacationing Americans, thanks to its coastline, campsites and range of outdoor activities but you’ll find Portlanders out every weekend in the winter, too. Mostly, that’s on their way to eat, as the restaurant scene is so good. Fishing retains a strong presence and many locals still take their constitutional along the eastern promenade to the salty odour of the morning catch. See Portland at its best by taking a stool at Becky’s diner, where laptop workers and lobstermen drink dollar-coffee side by side.
CULTURE
Meca
Congress Street, a walkable stretch that connects the Old Port to the west end of town, is the heartbeat of the arts district. Halfway along it sits the Maine College of Art (Meca), which fuels a vibrant contemporary art scene. As well as its student galleries, it is home to the Institute of Contemporary Art and the permanent collection of Bob Crewe, songwriter and producer for the Four Seasons. “Crewe lived and worked in Portland at the end of his life,” says Kiana Thayer, who moved from Rhode Island to study here. “It’s because of him that we’re the first art school in America to have a music programme.” The conversation between art and music continues a few doors up at the Space Gallery, which presents gigs, events and exhibitions.
• 522 Congress Street, meca.edu
Portland Museum of Art
“We’re still a baby city,” says Thayer, “but we’re a very visually driven area.” The museum of art exemplifies that: a modestly sized yet exceptionally curated overview of American art and its influences. For another insight into how art infuses and connects this community, visit studios Bomb Diggity Arts or The Art Department. Both of these not-for-profit organisations provide creative and retail opportunities for local artists and you can support the makers directly by purchasing a range of fantastic work from prints and crafts to clothing.
• 7 Congress Square, portlandmuseum.org
Wadsworth Longfellow House
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow was born in Portland in 1807. Back then, his family home sat on acres of farmland and had views all the way to the ocean. Today, its neoclassical brick facade sits, preserved, among the modern commercial buildings of Congress Street. Longfellow wrote some of his most famous works here but it’s his sister, Anne, who’s the real star of this story. Widowed in her mid-20s, she refused to remarry but spent her energy on social projects, such as helping women into work. Her legacy includes the library next to the house that holds the Maine Historical Society’s archives, which also tells stories from the city through temporary exhibits.
• 489 Congress Street, mainehistory.org
Bayside Bowl
The once-industrial Bayside area is trying to do regeneration right: tempering the influx of delis, bike shops and pottery and woodworking studios with social enterprises, business incubators and programmes for local youth and low-income residents. It has also sparked a popular craze for bowling since the repurposing of an old vending-machine warehouse into a 12-lane alley in 2010. A local politician opened the place as somewhere to house his Tuesday night beer league. Now it’s home to 800 league bowlers every week and even hosts pro events. An expansion in April 2017 added eight more lanes (cutting waiting times). Still, with an eye-catching bar and live music from local bands, it’s not a bad place to kill time.
• 58 Alder Street, baysidebowl.com
BARS
Arcadia
The neon sign in the window of this pinball bar promises LIVE NERDS and there’s plenty here to attract them. Aside from its array of machines, its games library covers everything from Settlers of Catan to Bananagrams. “I’m super into Rhino Hero right now,” says owner Dave Aceto, a self-confessed games addict. He started Arcadia three years ago with his friend Ben: “We used to play pinball at Coast City Comics, and go out drinking after, so we thought why don’t we combine the two?” Aceto has special alcohol-free hours on Saturday afternoons for the local kids.
• 24 Preble Street, arcadiaportland.com
The Bearded Lady’s Jewelbox
Nathaniel Meiklejohn (the Jewel Box’s pseudonymous bearded lady) has genuine speakeasy cred. The donations-only cocktail parties he held in the basement of his apartment were Portland’s most sought-after invite before he set up in this unmarked joint on Congress Street. His eclectic style (think lumberjack beard and pearls) infuses this place: vintage glassware meets old-school hip-hop, a mock-Louis XVI mural and a “voyeuristic” mezzanine that looks down on the bar. The drinks list features ever-changing originals at $10 apiece and there’s a half-size option for those who find them a bit punchy. A sample creation, such as Men in Mascara, might include “Cascara-infused mezcal, barolo chinato, aromatised wine, angostura and leather bitters”.
• 644 Congress Street, on Facebook
Oxbow Brewing Company
A generation ago Munjoy Hill was a place you didn’t venture at night; now it’s a great night out sampling craft beverages. Oxbow, one of the first of the new wave of craft breweries in town, has a tasting room there. “It’s a good place to visit,” says Sandy Lowden, team leader at graphic design and print shop, Publication Studio. “All of its beers are farmhouse style, so have this interesting Belgian yeast flavour to them. Plus, there’s Izakaya Minato opposite, which serves amazing Japanese food.” Also within staggering distance are Maine Mead Works, creator of HoneyMaker mead, and gin-maker Hardshore Distilling. Duckfat, whose Belgian-style food and eponymous fries are a local favourite, is to open a companion restaurant in Oxbow’s parking lot next year.
• 49 Washington Avenue, oxbowbeer.com
FOOD
Bolster, Snow & Co
The luxurious boutique Francis Hotel opened in October in a beautifully restored brick mansion in the west end. In its restaurant is a chef who understands Portland hospitality. “People here don’t want someone shouting and screaming in the kitchen, they want a handshake and a conversation,” says Nicholas Verdisco. He was tempted away from New York by Maine’s mixed bounty of farm and fish, which he describes as “almost Mediterranean” and his menu includes sophisticated seafood, such as an appetiser of scallop crudo with lime and caviar and unusual meat dishes, including oxtail on-the-bone. Still, it’s his carrots you’ll leave talking about – fried for dipping, and stacked in a tower alongside a moreish curry, buttermilk and blue cheese sauce.
• Brunch from $10, mains from $19, 747 Congress Street, bolstersnow.com
Local Sprouts Co-operative
If the rough-hewn decor and alfalfa-inspired name prompt expectations of this cafe, the overheard conversations may well confirm them: “Did you go to the protest?” asks one customer. “Which one?” comes the reply. The food and the atmosphere make this a special place, though. The breakfast and lunch menus offer a variety of vegan and gluten-free dishes with an acute eye for local provenance and side order of social conscience but there’s nothing hair-shirt about the cooking; the signature egg dishes, such as the Sunrise Scramble with pesto, roast mushroom, goast cheese and Heiwa tofu ($9.95), are packed with flavour. It’s also a busy community hangout that champions social justice causes, from Black Lives Matter to LGBTQ safe spaces.
• 649 Congress Street, localsproutscooperative.com
Eventide Oyster Co
You can get lobster anywhere in Portland – and a two-lobster dinner at The Porthole, where you can sit next to the lobsterman as he drinks Miller Lights, comes in at under $25. But there’s a reason Eventide Oyster Co has a two-hour wait on weekends. At $16.50, the brown butter lobster roll is hardly a cheap eat but it’s possibly the meltiest thing you’ll ever have in your mouth. There’s a dozen local oyster varieties and a New England clam bake, and anything on the menu goes well with the Bubbly Mary (aka bloody mary with cava, $10.50). If you’re too hungry to hold out, you can always head next door to its sister restaurant, The Honey Paw, for noodles.
• 86 Middle Street, eventideoysterco.com
Holy Donut
“Made with real Maine potatoes” doesn’t sound like the most lipsmacking advertisement for doughnuts. But apparently it’s the mashed potato that makes these creations especially moist. Leigh Kellis used to make them by hand, four at a time, in her own apartment – now she and her crew make two million a year. She has three locations to service the eager lines of customers and her reputation is built on her unique flavours, ranging from pomegranate to coconut to coffee brandy, and including seasonal specials (such as an autumnal pumpkin canoli).
• From $2.32 each or $21.99 for a dozen, 7 Exchange Street, theholydonut.com
MUSIC
Blue
With its cabaret-style seating and comfort-food bar snacks, Blue has become a second living room for a certain kind of Portland music lover. It’s a great place to hear some of the best talent that Maine can offer and its relaxed atmosphere is nicely complemented by its baked meatballs, pork sliders and pickled eggs. There’s music almost every night of the week: Saturday is jazz night and, on Wednesdays, it hosts lively Irish sessions.
• 650 Congress Street, portcityblue.com
One Longfellow Square
Christopher Neal currently lives two lives: one as a cook, the other as bassist in dance rock band John Hughes Radio. He loves the variety of music his hometown offers: “Portland doesn’t really have a ‘sound’ but you can find everything here, from punk to hip-hop to ambient electronic.” While heavy metal lovers head to Geno’s rock club, a rough-and-tumble dive bar, fans of acoustic veer towards One Longfellow Square, an intimate, non-profit venue that hosts a weekly programme of acts ranging from folk and jazz to indie and soul.
• 181 State Street, onelongfellowsquare.com
State Theatre
While Portland sustains an impressive array of smaller venues, national touring acts play at the 1,000-plus-capacity State Theatre, which has hosted artists from the Pixies and Steve Earle to Brandi Carlile and Queens of the Stone Age. It also hosts the town’s famous Beatles Night, run by Spencer Albee, who Neal describes as “the guru of Portland’s music scene”. “For 15 years, Spencer has been getting the local musicians together to play an entire Beatles album front to back – and it’s always a great time.”
• 609 Congress Street, statetheatreportland.com
Who to follow
thepresshotel.com/blog: the chic hotel in the former HQ of the Portland Press Herald reports all the news on the best local events
hottrashportland.com: an acerbic mix of genuinely useful information on local music and film, punctuated by true-life Portland stories and pop-culture gifs
• The trip was provided by Visit Maine with accommodation at the Portland Harbor Hotel (doubles from $139 room only). More information at visitportland.com and VisitTheUSA.co.uk
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